Image Adjustment
Possibly the first thing to do when starting to work on an
image is to produce a duplicate layer either from the Layer menu or from
the Layers palette flyout. Working on the duplicate layer (which can be
given a meaningful name) makes it easy to return to the original if things
don't go according to plan. In the layers palette just drag the layer to
the trash can and create another duplicate!!
Straightening horizons/making
verticals vertical
This is usually the first thing I have to do with an image.
I seem incapable of getting horizons level! Use the measure tool, which
is found in the toolbox on the flyout just above the magnifying glass.
Click on one end of an object that you want to make either horizontal or
vertical and drag along it releasing at the other end. In the info palette
you will see the measured angle. If you now go Image>Rotate
Canvas>Arbitrary you will see the angle already
entered in the dialogue.Click OK and the image will be rotated by the correct
amount. The crop tool can now be used to trim the image square
Adjustments
and Adjustment Layers.
Most of the Image adjustment tools can
be found, unsurprisingly, under Image>Adjustments
menu and may be used from there. This applies the adjustments directly to
the pixels of the image on the selected layer. I strongly recommend using
adjustment layers instead. Here the adjustments are contained in a layer
above the image and effect the layers below. Adjustment layers can be returned
to and altered or even removed at a later stage if required.
Levels
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Levels adjustment is likely to be one of the first refinements you
will want to carry out.
If the histogram doesn't stretch all the way across the horizontal
axis it means that the full range of tones is not being used in the
image. The blacks are not as black as they might be and the whites
are not pure white. The basic levels adjustment is to ensure that
the white slider (on the right) and the black slider(on the left)
are moved in to enclose the histogram. On the example shown on the
left the white slider should be moved in quite a way and the black
slider a little. This can be done manually or by clicking the auto
button. The central grey slider can then be moved to adjust the mid
tones.
At the bottom right hand side of the levels dialogue are three eye
droppers, From right to left to set white, grey and black points.
When using these it is useful to have the info palette visible. If
the white eye dropper is moved over the image to the whitest point
in the image the R, G and B values should be about the same. If they
are not then the whites have a color cast. Clicking the eye dropper
sets the white point and corrects this colour cast. Using the black
dropper in a similar way sets the black point.
The grey dropper is used to correct colour casts, choose a neutral
spot (without colour) and click on it. The colour balance of the whole
image is adjusted based on the fact that you have told it what neutral
should be.
If you are not sure where the lightest and darkest areas of the image
are these these can be determined by pressing the Alt key and dragging
the black and white sliders inwards. This method can also be used
to position the sliders at the extremes of the histogram.
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Advanced Levels Adjustment
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Carrying out a simple levels adjustment as described above will improve
the image but it is unlikely that optimum results will be obtained
for the whole image. The next section shows how to use a number of
levels adjustment layers to optimise particular areas of the image
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This is Antony Guppy's original image as scanned. It is a very pleasing
image with an attractive sky but I felt that improvements could be
made.
I first removed the wires using the patch tool in Photoshop 7®
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Step one in the levels adjustment is to introduce a levels adjustment
layer and adjust the overall levels. This has improved the image somewhat
but more can be done. In particular more could be made of the attractive
sky. |
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Step two is to introduce a
second levels adjustment layer and adjust the overall image until the
sky is as required. The sky is now OK but the overall image is too dark.
To rectify this a layer mask is used. Click the layer mask icon and,
using a soft edged brush with the foreground colour black, paint over
the foreground. This masks the foreground from the effect of the second
adjustment layer. |
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To finalise the image a third levels adjustment layer was used in
the same way to slightly darken the locos, with a layer mask used
to mask all the image exept the locos. This was done by painting with
black everything but the locos. Alternatively the layer mask could
be filled with black and the area of the locos then painted with white
to remove the mask in that area.
When using multiple adjustment layers it isn't necesarry that they
all be the same type. It may be effective for example to use a combination
of levels, curves and hue and saturation adjustment layers to produce
the optimum result.
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| Curves |
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To increase or decrease the amount of detail you can see in shadows
midtones or highlights choose Image>Adjustments>Curves.
To change the tonal range click on the curve
to create a point; then drag the point to change its position. The
rest of the curve will change shape to make a smooth transition. A
curve such as that shown left will darken the shadows and lighten
the highlights.
If there is a particular tone that needs to be altered then open the
curves dialogue, take the cursor into the image and click on the tone
to be changed. You will notice as you click an indication on the curve
showing where the tone is located. It can then be lightened or darkened
by dragging that area of the curve.
The three eyedroppers at the bottom right of the curves dialogue box
work in a similar way to that described under 'levels'.
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to be continued